However, one may notice that such a famous dish is now relegated to an oddity. History puts this down to the difficulty with which one prepares a turtle for consumption. Turtle soup declined in popularity in the twentieth century with the rise of more affordable foods that were easier to prepare, like TV dinners and Spam. In a long and winding piece for Saveur, Jack Hitt found that all that together with the comparative inconvenience of making turtle soup, Hitt laments but understands the national dish’s disappearance.
A few months after the Hitt piece was published, David Steen wrote a substantial article in Slate that spelled out how wrong Hitt’s conclusion was: “That’s like writing an entire article about cheeseburgers and never mentioning beef … or cows.” You follow Hitt as he experiences a turtle hunt, but you never learn the somewhat obvious fact that there are not enough to make turtle soup on a sustainable scale because we have eaten so many turtles. Many turtles belong to endangered species under governmental protection, partly because humans used them as soup. The biggest hurdle for those who want a sustainable diet of turtles is their survival strategy, ensuring just enough turtles survive. Most baby turtles die due to predators – picture the scenes where sea turtles make a mad dash to the water while seagulls pick them off, and you can start to imagine why most do not survive to maturity. However, turtles live a long time, which means they can usually lay just enough eggs to replace each generation. In the 1960s and ’70s, alligator snapping turtles were nearly hunted to extinction to make soup. The number of new baby turtles birthed could never keep up with the demand for adult turtle flesh. That said, as the opening bit with Atlas Obscura suggests, if you still want a very popular imitation, try mock turtle soup.